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世俗快乐原来就是终极快乐
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作者:张无忌之1989 提交日期:2004-3-1 18:52:00 | 分类: | 访问量:715
今天的功课(一)
03 月01 日
为什么要付小费
What's the point of tipping?
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当年在我作侍应生那会儿,或许就是因为没有在餐客的肩上轻拍两下,或是和他们玩个游戏或讲个笑话什么的,导致收到的小费只有一点点。
 Perhaps it was my failure to touch the diners lightly on the shoulder or entertain them with games or jokes that accounted for the paltry tips I received as a waiter all those years ago.
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当我刚开始干时,拿小费的前景似乎光明一片。这毕竟是卡尔登饭店(Carlton Hotel),南非约翰内斯堡最豪华的地方啊,这里的客人有的是用不着的零钱。但我的一位侍应生同事,一个安哥拉难民,劝我降低期望值。“越是有钱的给的越少,”他告诉我。
 The tip prospects looked promising when I started out. This was, after all, the Carlton Hotel, then Johannesburg's poshest, where the customers had plenty of change to spare. One of my fellow-waiters, an Angolan refugee, advised me to lower my expectations. "The richer they are, the less they give," he told me.
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我至今还记得收到小费的那次,是从一个亲友的手里,他很惊讶地发现是我在伺候他。那是在70年代的一个夏天,我在那儿打工。要是当时我是想多挣些小费,增加工资的话,那可真是在酒店里挑错了地方。因为我的工作是在宴会厅,那是举办婚宴和企业宴会的地方,而不是餐厅。
 I do recall receiving one tip - from a family friend who was astonished to find me serving him - during the 1970s summer that I worked there. If I had hoped to add to my wages, I had probably chosen the wrong part of the hotel. My job was in the banqueting hall, which hosted wedding receptions and corporate dinners, rather than the restaurant.
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由于客人用不着自己掏钱,他们可能就觉得没有给小费的义务了。另一个可能是因为我是酒店最差的侍应生,可能是世界上最差的;所以在每次宴会结束后,我都是两手空空。
 Because the guests were not paying for the meals themselves, they may have felt no obligation to tip. The other possible reason I left empty-handed after each function was that I was the worst waiter in the hotel, or possibly in the world.
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我的本事包括,把一杯啤酒撒在客人的大腿上,并且把热咖啡滴在了一位女士的背上,引得她厉声尖叫。我的同事则能把几十只空杯子叠放在巨大的圆托盘上,毫不费力地一个转身,穿过旋转门,把它们送到厨房;然后驻足迎接挑战我的到来,为乒乒乓乓摔碎的杯子喝彩。
 My accomplishments included dropping a glass of beer in one diner's lap and eliciting a squeal from another by dripping some hot coffee down her back. My colleagues used to load dozens of empty glasses on to huge round trays that they effortlessly swirled through the swing doors into the kitchens - where they would pause to cheer the crash of glasses that invariably marked my arrival.
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那个夏天,我白天的工作是在Wanderers板球场的一个货摊卖食物和饮料,那就要简单多了。没了那么多可以被摔坏的东西,而且简(Jan)的插科打诨也让日子生色不少。简是一个英国化的南非人,老板让我和她一起工作。“有什么烫的东西吗?”一个客人问。“只有可乐,”简会快活地回答。嗨,是说真的,客人会坚持。“牛肉腰子派还挺烫的,”简说。“我能摸摸吗?”客人会怀疑地问。“随便你拿它干什么。”简会说,“只要你付钱。”
 My day job that summer, selling food and drink from a stall at the Wanderers cricket ground, was far easier. There was less to drop and the days were enlivened by the banter of Jan, the anglicised Afrikaner I had been told to work with. "Have you got anything hot?" a customer would enquire. "Only the Cokes," Jan would answer cheerfully. No, seriously, the customer would persist. "The steak and kidney pies are quite hot," Jan would say. "Can I feel one?" the customer would ask suspiciously. "You can do what you like with it," Jan would reply, "as long as you pay for it."
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在那儿我们也没有小费,但在货摊上卖东西是得不到小费的。在人们的观念里,货摊和餐厅不一样;同样地,餐厅和宴会厅也不同。可为什么人们在某些场合给小费,有些则不给,这个问题一直令这个领域的研究者很困惑。
 We got no tips there either - but then you don't when you serve in a stall, which people think of as being different from a restaurant, which is, in turn, different from a banqueting hall. Why people tip in one environment and not another has long puzzled those who have studied the matter.
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美国康奈尔大学酒店管理学院的迈克尔#林在评论某个研究文献时*写道,在不同的文化中,付小费的习惯大相径庭。任何一个旅游者都知道,美国是世界上最爱给小费的国家。美国研究者已经发现了一些更能让顾客付小费的方法。我真该在作侍应生的时候用上这些招数。除了我在本专栏开篇即提到的肩上轻拍两下、做个游戏或讲个笑话之类,侍应生还被建议向客人介绍自己的名字,和他们说话时挨着桌子并伏下身子,以及“咧嘴大笑”等等。
 As Michael Lynn of Cornell University's school of hotel administration notes in a review of the research literature*, tipping habits differ widely between cultures. Any traveller knows that the US is the world's most tip-happy country. I could have done, in my waitering days, with some of the methods that, US researchers have found, make customers more likely to tip. Apart from the light touch on the shoulder and the games and jokes that I mentioned at the start of this column, waiters are advised to introduce themselves by name, squat down next to the table when talking to customers and give "big open-mouthed smiles".
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#日志日期:2004-3-1 星期一(Monday) 多云 送小红花 推荐指数:复制链接 举报



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